Salsa Verde
Parsley sauce with anchovies, capers, and rustic charm.

Judy Rogers wrote pretty much everything there is to say about salsa verde. To quote: “perky, fragrant herbs,” “don’t clutter,” and “anyone can make an excellent one.” Even the word “multilayered” gets tossed around, which sounds fancy but just means you forgot to chop some herbs evenly. Call it rustic charm. The commandments are then followed by a thorough step-by-step guide.
I don’t have the same self-confidence or determination to write such detailed instructions. My preferences are simple. Parsley is practically mandatory, and, as of late, I’ve been using a mortar and pestle, which begets a wonderful coarse-textured sauce.
Half a bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves separated and washed
A couple of anchovy fillets
Two cloves of garlic, peeled
A spoonful of capers
Olive oil
Black pepper, freshly cracked
In the mortar, smash the garlic cloves with a pinch of salt (just enough to help the garlic turn into a mash), then add the anchovy fillets and pound until they melt into a paste.
Fold in the parsley and work it just enough to make it surrender; alternatively, give it a rough chop before adding it to the mortar.
Toss in the capers and drizzle in good olive oil until the mixture loosens. Season with black pepper.