Linguini and Ramps
Buy a bunch. Cook them simply. Enjoy before they’re gone.
Along with cherry blossoms blooming and premature picnics, the sighting of ramps is a sign of New York in spring.
One moment they show up at the farmers’ market; the next, they’re everywhere. The disturbance gets so loud I think about boycotting them out of spite. The pout doesn’t last long. Their bright, garlicky taste is worth the noise.
Buy a bunch. Cook them simply. Enjoy before they’re gone.
Salt
80 grams linguini
A knob of unsalted butter
1 bunch of ramps, about 90 grams, cleaned
20 grams Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
15 grams pecorino romano, grated
Olive oil
Parsley, finely chopped
Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil.
Separate the ramp stems from the leaves. Slice the stems; Leave the leaves whole or give them a rough chop.
In a large pan, add a splash of olive oil and sauté the ramps stems gently until translucent.
Drop the linguini into the boiling water.
While it cooks, combine the cheeses, butter and parsley in a bowl with a splash of pasta water to form a loose paste.
Add another splash of pasta water to the pan with the stems, then the ramp leaves. They’ll wilt in seconds.
When the pasta is al dente, transfer it directly to the pan, or drain it using a strainer, reserving a cup of pasta water. Toss to coat and remove from the heat.
Add the cheese paste, toss vigorously until the sauce looks glossy and clings to the strands. Splash in extra water if needed. Serve immediately.
